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Our Friends

In case you didn’t see them along the way, here are our friends and travel companions. Love them all


Mark & Mauree Jane. 

Astrid. 

Per


Paula

Mark (S)

Lisa

Kevin

Carol (fresh from the dance floor)

Mike

Mark(P), thanks for the picture

What a great group. Feels like Family. Miss you all.

January 30, 31. Return home

We didn’t leave the hotel until around 7:30pm this evening because we had an overnight flight to Houston. Then connecting to San Francisco.

It was a bit of an anti-climax to filnally get on the bus to the airport and to depart home from this incredible journey. At Houston we said goodbye to Mark & Paula. That left four of us. At San Francisco, we said goodbye to Kevin and Lisa. Carol and went home feeling a bit stunned from the whole experience. During January the Bay Area was deluged with rain storms. A good thing. Given the weather in Antarctica, Patagonia, Atatcama and Rio, I wonder who got the most rain?

Thanks for following along and, special thanks to Amber at TCS for planning this whole thing. Great job!

January 29. Caipirinha!

This morning Kevin and I decided to take the cooking class. This involved going with Christina to meet a local chef, at a local market to see what was available. Great seafood. We then went to his apartment where he showed us how to make Moqueca - a dish of shrimp cooked in coconut milk and palm oil. This was accompanied with Farofa, a toasted cassava flour, and rice. For desert we had tropical fruits flambe’d in cachaça. It was all fun and delicious. But what is this cachaça stuff? It turns out to be a spirit made from sugar cane, but not like rum. It is the most popular spirit in Brazil and the vital ingredient in Caipirinha, Brazil’s mational cocktail. Bruno, our chef, made us one and it was dangerously delicious. One was enough!

Here’s Bruno.

After lunch we had some time off before the evening’s big event - Samba!

Around 6pm we went to a Samba bar, Leviano. Christina brought along a couple of her Samba friends who would teach us how to do it.

Two Caipirinha’s later we were dancing with the best of them!

But not quite as well as the pros.

Thanks whoever took this photo and shared it.

Things got pretty sweaty as the night wore on.

Reluctantly, at around 9pm we left and returned to the hotel for our farewell dinner. Tomorrow we would be going home so this was a fitting end to the journey.

January 27. Life in the Big City

Up early, of course, because we had an appointment with Christ the Redeemer, the giant statue on top of the hill overlooking Rio.

It’s not easy getting there. You need to take a rickety old train up the mountain, stuffed with tourists. Our traveling companions consisted of a boat-load (really) of English people fresh of a cruise ship. It takes about 45min to get up there with some stops & starts. At the top there’s no mistaking where you are. One giant statue.

And the view was spectacular. However, it was jammed with tourists most of whom were lying on the ground taking selfies or getting photographed, arms outstretched. It was also getting hot.

Our guide, Christina, had a better idea and took us to a different spot where we could get great views without all the crowds. Of course this meant taking the train all the way back down the mountain, along with our English cruise ship friends. but that was OK.

From this point on we took a bit of a City tour.

We drove through the Santa Theresa district, popular with artists and the graffitti community

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We climbed the Selaron Steps, created by the artist Jorge Selaron as a “tribute to the people of Brazil”

We passed by the infamous Favelas but were warned not to go in.

We saw many other things but the one I admired the most was the massive mural near the port depicting various Nationalities. This is half of it.

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This City loves its graffitti! Almost every wall and building is covered in the stuff. Some good (like above & below). Most not.

By now, it was getting really, really hot and we were are getting tired from walking around. Time for lunch!

By the time we were done it was mid-afternoon and we had the rest of the day off.

We had a great dinner that night at the hotel. The MEE restaurant. Lots of sushi, tempura and Pad Thai. Yum.

The next day (January 28) was a rest day for me - lunch by the pool, relax, take a nap. Carol went with the rest of the group up Sugarloaf Mountain and had a jolly time, despite the heat. She came back looking a bit sweaty and immediately hit the shower. I took the night off as well and slept. Sometimes it just catches up on you!

Per and Astrid left that night to go back to the US. We said our goodbye’s. I was sorry to see them go but knew they would be leaving before the rest of us. We are now down to six.

January 26. Copa, Copacabana

Today we were to fly to Rio on the final leg of our journey around South America but first, I wasn’t finished with the falls. Kevin and I got up early to photograph the falls in the morning light. I wanted to use a filter to slow down the images of the water so we set of with camera and tripod down the same path we followed the previous morning. There was lots of spray, mist and condensation so the reults were mixed but it was fun to try.

Later, we had to cross back over the border to Argentina. That’s where our plane was parked. We had the usual inspections and delays but got through OK and on to the airport. We did wonder if it was worth the hassle to land in Argentina but to see most of the falls in Brazil. We probably would do it differently if we did it again.

We flew out for our short trip to Rio De Janiero, landing late afternoon.

We were met with our guide, Christina who helped transport us and our vast amount of luggage to our hotel - The Palace Copacabana, right on the famous beach. First thing we noticed, it was hot. Really hot. And, true to form we landed in a thunderstorm so it was also raining. It was a bit strange and unusual to be in a major city after spending so much time out in the wilds. We were looking forward to a few days exploring what Rio had to offer.

January 25. Wet, Wet, Wet!

Today was Per’s Birthday and we were all happy to celbrate it with him. 

First stop was a short walk from the hotel to view the falls from the Brazil side. This was much more spectacular than yesterday!

We walked down the trail towards the falls and the views kept getting better.

We began to wonder if we should have been on this side of the falls all along.

Next stop was a short helicopter ride to see the falls from the  air. Exciting!

Carol got a front seat view.

This was turning out to be a busy day. Next stop was to take a boat ride on the river to see the falls from down low. We had a guide for this part of the day who gave us three choices - Wet. Wet, wet. or Wet, wet, wet. Obviously we all went for the wettest and got suited up accordingly knowing that no matter what we wore, we’d get soaked. Off we went,ready for action.

Thanks whoever took this photo and shared it.

We did, in fact get exceptionally wet. As we sailed directly underneath the falls,there was no amount of hermetic sealing which prevented every layer of clothing getting completely soaked. Great fun and we kept demanding more!

Thankfully, it was warm and it didn’t take long to dry out.

That evening we celebrated Per’s Birthday in the hotel restaurant with great food and fine wine. I think he’ll remember this one for a while.

Thanks whoever took this photo and shared it.

January 24, Off to Iguacu!

January 23 was a bit of a lost day. Most of our group set off on a (very) early morning excursion to see the hot spring on top of some 17,000ft mountain. They set off at 5am but had to return because the road had been washed out due to the heavy rains a couple of nights before. Frustrated, they opted for a tour of the Moon Valley nearby. 

The next day we were to depart Atacama to go to Iguacu. It was an early morning departure for the 2 hour drive back to Calama to catch our jet. When we arrived at the airport there was nobody there to meet us. With a mountain of luggage piled up on the pavement outside, we went off to find someone who could help. Carol finally tracked down the right person and we were escorted through the usual immigration, security, passport control we had become used to along the way. On this flight we were treated to some more spectacular scenery along the way.

Iguacu falls, by any measure, is one of the great waterfall sights of the World. It’s a must-see on any South America tour. The falls themselves form the boundary between Argentina and Brazil to it’s a toss-up which country you choose to view them from. For a variety of reasons, we chose both. We landed on the Argentinian side late in the morning. After the usual formalities we were taken to a local Marriott hotel for lunch. From there we spent the afternoon viewing the falls. On the Argenina side, there’s more trails and walks to view the falls. There’s even a small railway that transports tourist to the very edge of the falls, known as the “Devil’s Throat”. 

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Thanks whoever took this photo and shared it.

While spectacular, it was crowded tourist hell and we quickly burned out on barging through the throngs of tourists with selfie sticks trying to get a good view while being soaked by the spray from the falls. Our guide found some quieter trails from which we could get a better view.

Per , Carol and I had had enough so we made it back to the Marriot for a beer while we waited for the rest of the group to finish their walk. 

Next, we needed to cross the border to Brasil. Seemed simple enough and, in fact, was quite easy. Once in Brasil we drove to our final hotel - the Hotel das Cataratas. This was a luxurious resort with great views of the falls, from the Brazillian side.

Nice dinner by the pool.

Jaunary 22. The Real Atacama

Sun was shining, more or less. The air was cool but getting warmer. We all set of for a full day excursion to the Altiplanic Lagoons two hours south east of the the hotel. The day promised spectacular scenery, plenty of wildlife and a picnic lunch by the Piedras Rojas (red rocks). The area we were visiting was 4,000m above sea level (~13,000ft). We had been taking high altitude medication which we acquired in Bariloche from the hotel doctor (who was around 12 years old and happy to prescribe anything and have it promptly delivered to the hotel). All good.

It was a long drive, over mostly dirt roads, gaining altitude. As we approached the area we would explore we saw our first Vicuñas, a member of the llama family but smaller.

As we descended to the salt lagoons we could a glimpse of a strange  rabbit-like animal with a big tail. I think they called it Viscacha

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Finally, we reached the lagoons and marvelled at the amazing scenery.

And, yes, there were Flamingos!

It was quite a spectacular and unique place. Quite chilly since we were 13,000 ft up.

And, we had a nice picnic by the red rocks, behind which could be used as a convenient toilet.

Then somebody spotted a couple of Vicuñas with a just new-born calf. It must have been born just minutes before and we watched as it got up and tried to walk about, bambi -  style. They let us get quite close which was surprising but probably smart to keep away the pumas, their natural predator.

It was a remarkable sight to see the baby gain it footing and conficence, within minutes.

On the return journey we saw other ostrich-like animals in the distance.

Since it took 2+ hours to return we took advantage of a local ice cream vendor who just popped up at the right moment.

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This was definitely a grand day out. 

We weren’t too impressed with the hotel food but discovered an “alternative” menu with burgers, steaks etc. This worked out well. 

January 21. Dryest Place on Earth?

In the morning, on our way back to the airport, Nahuel insisted that Bariloche had the best croissants in the World and that we should try some as we drove along. With the best intentions we stopped at a local bakery that he had recommended. Just one problem - it wasn’t opened yet. This did not deter Nahuel who promptly barged in the siode door and instructed the baker to put some croissants in the oven. 20 minutes later, and slightly anxious to get to the airport, a big bag of hot croissants arrived with Nahuel smiling with success. The were very good. The best? Don’t know but appreciated the effort nonetheless.

So, we were back on the jet for the flight to Calama, near Atatcama. Back in Chile. Along the way we were invited into the cockpit to appreciate some spectacular views of the Andes.

Upon arrival and clearing immigration and customs (every bag in our group was searched), we headed off with our driver to San Pedro de Atacama, about 2 hours drive away. There we would be staying at the Tierra Atacama hotel. This is just like the Explora concept with daily activities and excursions.

Along the way, we got an appreciation for the desolate landscape of the desert with high mountains and volcanoes in the distance. We arrived at the hotel, embedded in a rustic village of dirt roads and farm fields. Of course, we were invited to sign up for activities right away. I had read there are vast salt lakes in the region famous for flocks of Flamingos. That sounded like fun for this afternoon so we signed up for that. Only one little problem. Despite being the dryest place on Earth, with a mere 5mm of rain per year, we were now looking at dark skys and the occasional flash of lightning. Aparently we had arrived during the rainy season. We set off anyway as the sky darkened further and lightning became more frequent. We stopped at a local village on the way.

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Since we were traveling on dirt roads, things were not looking good. Determined to see the Flamingos, we pressed on for about an hour being followed by the impending storm. Well, we got there just as the wind was getting up and people were rushing back to their transportation. There were several Flamingos but most have also seen the approaching storm and had flown off to wherever they go when this kind of weather happens. I got  a few shots.

Mark was determined to take pictures.

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Back to the bus and off on the 1-2 hour drive back to the hotel. Flashes of lightning, thunder, more flashes of lightning, torrents of rain. The guide, from the front seat of the bus, described it as like an Armageddon movie. There was  certainly more than 5mm of rain dropped that evening!

Safely back in the hotel we all had dinner and crashed for the night. It was still raining as we went back to our rooms.

January 20. Basking in the Sun

After yesterday we had high expectations for a great day out. We travelled by boat to Victoria Island. This was a short 45min ride from Bariloche. The weather was warm and sunny and we were rapidly forgetting the cold of the Antrarctic. Technically, Barilche is still in Patagonia but the weather was much different than the south. Unfortunately we still couldn’t keep Per from his cell phone.

We arrived on the Island and posed for the obligatory group photo. 

Thanks whoever took this photo and shared it.

While the Island is now uninhabited and is a National Park - Parc Nahuel no less, Nahuel explained that he had grown up on the island and went to school there. We needed to visit the school.

After a few miles of gentle ups and downs (Nahuel advertised this as a “walk” not a “hike”) we ended up a t a secluded beach and, you guessed it, another fabulous picnic!

Thanks whoever took this photo and shared it.

Before eating, however, it was necessary for some of our group to cool off.


We had a great lunch, same chef as yesterday. No seranading this time just lying back on the beach taking in the warm sun. Before too long other boats started to show up on the beach so it was time to leave. I think the new arrivals were glad to see the back of us.

Back at the hotel for dinner we reflected on two great days in Bariloche. We started to get a sense of just how diverse our journey was becoming since we were about to move on to even warmer climes. That was for tomorrow.


© MICHAEL RAMSAY 2017